Jason Florio "Silafando" | Messineo/Wyman

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Silafando
Portraits of Chiefs and Elders
A lesson in West African protocol for travelers

The Gambia is the smallest country on the continent of Africa, and no matter the size of their villages each one has a chief, known locally as an Alkalo. An Alkalo can be male or female and can be either a descendent of the founder of the village or elected by the villagers. The Alkalo's rolls include negotiating disputes within the village, giving land and hosting travelers that pass through his domain. One wonders how long the Alkalo system in The Gambia can survive, as the country is rapidly modernizing, and the position is largely unpaid.

I co-led the first recorded circumnavigation of The Gambia by foot — a 930 km journey. Each night we would spend in a different village and I would make a portrait of the Alkalo and his close entourage. Traditionally a traveler who stays with an Alkalo would present him/her with five bitter seeds called Kola nuts in thanks for hosting and protecting for the night. This gift giving is called 'silafando' — which means— 'a gift to you on behalf of my journey' . My modern interpretation of 'silafando' was to give the Alkalo an instant print from a battery powered printer — for many it was the first formal photograph they had of themselves.